Saturday, May 17, 2008

Creature Comforts

So its been a while between blogs, I must admit we've been trekking all over the place and doing some pretty cool things. One of the coolest things would have to be San Diego Seaworld. It was pretty unreal! I got to touch a dolphin and talked to a seal and watched killer whales jumping into the air and all that. But what I realised most during this little excursion is that I REALLY miss animals! San Francisco has an abundance of people walking their dogs along the water and I always seem to have an overwhelming urge to go up and rough one up and play with it!!! I miss my doggy so much, I  miss her wagging her tail erratically until it almost falls off, i miss that unconditional love that a dog provides. I haven't had any doggy lovin for almost 4 months and its killing me! I'm tempted to go up to the next person I see with a dog and ask if I can borrow it for a day! Although I did get in trouble for touching a horse in San Diego. I just wanted to say hi, it wasn't going anywhere, was just tied to a cart and was quite happy to see me, but his owner got all stroppy at me and told me to stay away from his horse!!! I mean seriously, I'm not gonna steal it, I just want to say hi!!

I can't wait until I get home and Lily (hopefully she remembers me!) will get all excited and jump around and go crazy and I'll feel satisfied!!! Funny what you miss when you're away from home!

Monday, April 28, 2008

Caribbean

The Caribbean Cruise.

Warning: this blog may contain statements that may seem conceited and rich-bitch like, however, this must be included to ensure a correct portrayal of everything that is a ‘Caribbean Crui.

What an experience! Our ship, the Valor, is humungous! I mean, I’ve never been on a cruise before but I wasn’t expecting anything so huge! It’s basically a floating city, complete with cinema, theatre, gym, several pools and an abundance of restaurants and clubs!

We are welcomed on board to the main deck, complete with the ‘Entertainment Crew’ who give us a little demonstration of their dancing techniques, a performance remarkably similar to High School Musical! Americans (especially the type found on a ship such as this) are so overly happy, all of the time…and dance a lot…to any form of music.

We settled into our cabins, which are actually quite roomy, well roomy enough to spread our belongings throughout the room and completely unpack our bags, something we’ve not been able to do for about 10 weeks! It feels as though there is a poltegeist in here when drawers and doors open and close as the ship rocks from side to side!

Then lunch is served! We find a small self serve buffet with a selection of fried things and are slightly disappointed at the quality of the food. After finishing our meal, we then walk around the corner into a massive food hall type set up, where another, bigger, better buffet is held! Dammit! We filled up on the shite stuff! In this buffet you can get pretty much everything excluding lobster! At risk of sounding like a gourmet, I never expected such an amazing range of food! I had boullibase with fresh garlic bread, followed by almond cheesecake with a berry coulis, and Jem had ceviche and fish and chips. That night, we thought we’d be going back to the same buffet, however, we were directed to the Lincoln Room, where we were served with a silver service 3 course meal!!! Jem and I were flabbergasted at the service, food and general professinalism of the whole set up! That’s USA for you!! Plus we were seated next to a gorgeous gay couple from Miami who would ‘love to go to Australia, but its just so far you know?’

We then went to an on-board show, performed by terrible British jazz dancers. Jem and I practically wet our pants at the performance of numbers such as ‘Lets Cruise Tonight’ by CDB! We then retired to the cabin where, naturally, I dyed my hair black.

Next morning after a restful sleep, we went to breakfast, again, a delightful assortment of edibles, accompanied by coffee and juice. I’m sorry for the carrying on about the food, but as my good friend Emily will confirm, I live to eat, not eat to live. After this, we headed to the ‘Adults Only’ swimming pool area where I played on my laptop like the right yuppie I am while Jem got some UV absorbtion, all accompanied by a Bob Marley tribute band. Gotta love it!

I thought I’d experienced luxury before, but I’ve never had anything compared to this! (Except maybe staying at the Swisshotel with Mum in Sydney, thanks for that btw!) You can have anything you want, when you want it. Spa, gym, smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels! All you have to pay for is alcohol, internet (set at 75c per minute, meaning I’ve abstained from being connected for an entire week – go me!) and shopping, everything else is included in the price. Needless to say Jem and I have also abstained from drinking alcohol (yes, it is true!) until the prices lower considerably and the discos actually have people in them! The nightlife of the ship really needs to improve, however its costing us much less as a result! Off to Grand Cayman island to play with dolphins and lay on white sand tomorrow. It’s a hard life. I’m officially in tacky, tropical heaven and I’m going to find it very hard to get off this ship!

DAY 2 & 3

Right now I’m sitting looking out on a grey sky and black ocean. It appears the sun isn’t included in the price of the cruise!

Grand Cayman island was really nice, but it was so commercial its not funny. As we left the ship we were given a map of the main town, Georgetown. You’d think this map would include everything from tourist offices, to police stations to helpful information about where to find good snorkeling spots. Noooo. This map includes only shopping destinations, ones supported by Carnival Cruises. We were soon to find out that not only does Carnival control everything you do onboard, but everything you do off it too. Carnival pretty much owns the islands!!! (Needless to say we walked to a nice beach and got some UV instead of buying duty free diamonds or opening bank accounts!)

Onshore excursions can be organized for your pleasure, but when looked at closely, you can see that this service is purely a money making scheme. Attractions such as swim with the dolphins will set you back $120 for 20minutes, snorkeling adventures for close to $100, hell, just to get to the beach costs $40 through Carnival! However, being the savvy tight arse travelers that we are, we managed to get a taxi to the reef in Roatan and back on our own, for half the ship’s price!

After talking to a very nice taxi driver from Roatan island, we find out that ALL fares are through Carnival. They’re not allowed to take ANY fares without paying a commission (I’ll bet above 50%) to the cruise liner! The local tourist economy depends soley on Carnival. I felt a little sick after hearing this. I mean sure, its great that Carnival bring 3000 people a day to these islands, but instead of taking a cut of the local tourism, let them have it all, stay out of the operation of the island and let them run it themselves. These are poor islands (ok, maybe excluding Grand Cayman!) and I would much rather pay this stupidly expensive price for getting to a beach to go snorkeling knowing that the entire fare was going to the tour operators, strengthening the economy of the island, rather than going to a multi million dollar cruise liner!

It really is obscene the amount of money these cruising people have, and I hate that the locals look at me like they look at ‘them’, like I’m from another planet, one of milk and honey! I almost wish I could go back to South America where the rich don’t flaunt their wealth in front of the poor, and the bums and beggars contain more happiness and satisfaction in their lives than those with huge bank accounts. Where you know that when you buy a bracelet from a girl on the side of the road that that money is going towards her dinner for the night. That when you go on the Inca Trail, an honest amount of the price and tips is going to the porters who have been dreaming of this job all their lives.

Ok, so we did perhaps book an excursion, it’s a catamaran ride through the second largest barrier reef in the world in Belize (as usual, Australia wins!) and there’s complimentary drinks, so we’re just going to get tanked on punch and take Carnival down by drinking them dry! Watch out, here come Clare and Jem! Saving the Caribbean one drink at a time!

Miami

Miami. It didn’t even feel like we’d left South America. Everyone still speaks Spanish. I ordered a Coke at the airport in English and received a blank look, then ordered in Spanish and got comprehension. Oh well, at least I can keep practicing!


I knew this would be the town of the rich and beautiful, but to this extreme! At first appearance, it seems like Surfers Paradise, only much much larger. Our first morning was spent at Southbeach, very similar to any Queensland beach, plus girls in gold larmae swim suits and an abundance of gym junkies. People in Miami don’t go to the beach to swim or surf. They go to show off their new leopard skin bikini or sip cocktails or flirt outrageously with the local solarium-tanned macho men. I have never felt self –conscious walking down a beach in my swimmers. Until yesterday! The amount of ridiculously good-looking women (and men for that matter) is amazing! But not the kind of natural beauty you find in a coastal town. You get the feeling that these girls don’t leave the house without a considerable amount of work, choice of completely over-dressed ensemble, careful make-up, previous sun tanning, manicures, peticures etc. I felt completely under dressed walking down the main road in my denim skirt and black singlet top and flip flops.

We spent the rest of this first day searching downtown Miami for an Apple store and a Verison (apparently Vodafone’s sister company) unsuccessfully and so went back to the hostel to some really annoying German girls that walk around topless and turn the air conditioning up to sweltering heat despite the fact that its boiling outside.

We went out that night with some people from the hostel. After pre drinks at the hotel, we headed out at midnight to explore the Miami club scene. We arrived at a club called Mansions, where we waited in front of the ‘red rope’ for a solid 20 minutes while the guy from our hostel worked his magic with the bouncers and managed to convince them that 2 guys with a 7 girl-strong harem was fit to enter the club without queuing. This is after being looked up and down by the door bitch, obviously checking to see if we were good looking enough to be worthy of her club. We were presented with a charge of $30 to enter the club, despite the fact that at midnight, it was close to empty. We decided (being the tight arse Aussie travelers that we are) that that was a bit to steep and made a 180 through the front door. Much to the door bitch’s dismay, the people in the queue saw us leaving and drew to the conclusion that it wasn’t worth lining up for, also leaving. Suck that stupid Miami biatch!!!

So we did what any Aussie in Miami would do…went to the nearest Irish pub! Although still overly expensive ($7 for a beer!!), the atmosphere was much more relaxed and the people here were much less stuck up!!

So yesterday I bought my whiz bang brand new Macbook Pro and its so shiny and new and pretty and metallic! We uploaded 5000 photos from our trip so far! I think we’ve been getting overly excited with our cameras for the past two months!

Jem came with me to buy my computer and ended up buying on herself (I mean, there’s impulse buying and then there’s insanity..) so we walked down a populated Miami beach road with brand new Macbooks in one hand, tickets to a cruise in the Caribbean in the other, 8 months of travel through 3 continents to come, looking like rich bitches and finally felt like we fit in! All we needed was a Chiaua under our arm and it would have been perfect! Little did everyone know that it was all going on credit..and not daddy’s credit card like the rest of the 23 year olds in Miami, but our own which we will have to pay back upon our return. Awesome.

But I’m happy now, I have my puter, I’m going on a cruise next week, and I’m feeling healthy. Apart from 20 sandfly bites on my legs, which have consequently become infected and itching like crazy! Might need something for that…

Friday, March 28, 2008

Dune Buggy! Yeaah!

Us at the dunes
Photo of a photo

Our sand duning team!

Just a quicky today as I´m in a beautiful coastal town much like I imagine Byron Bay was like before it became so commercial, so I want to take as much time as possible exploring this place! The above photos are from a massive range of sand dunes we went riding over. It was one of the most fun things I´ve ever done in my life! It was like a roller coaster but cooler! We then went down a few hills on boards which was pretty cool also and Jem ended up with sasnd in every crevice!



Monday, March 17, 2008

Our porters Hey llama... View from our tent second night Bloody steps... Maccu Picchu!!! Mountains surrounding Maccu Picchu

Inca Trail



The girls of the group day before the trek

So, the infamous Inca Trail. Everyone knows about it, its probably one of the main reasons we decided to book this tour, but here's an account of the reality of the Inca Trail, well our side of the story anyway.
Looking fresh before the trek!

DAY 1: After being taxied to Ollyantaytambo where we spent the night and got stuffed on veggie lasagne and then banana pancakes the next morning, we headed to our starting station where 20 porters loaded 30kg onto their backs (tents, food, our duffkle bags etc). After a quick passport check we embark on our journey!


Day one isthe most deceiving as its literally a walk int he park! An occasional stop to carefully observe the native medicinal flora or for a story on the incas and how they lived. Our guide Ruben is passionate and infinately knowlegable, he's done the inca trail 300 times ad you can tell he lives and breathes everything inca! Lunch is served in mess tents surrounded by chickens and donkeys next to a gorgeous little stream - quinoa soup, rice, tuna lasagne and an avocado cocktail to die for! Nope -no slop, no eating out of acan, this 5 star service in incredible! The meals on the inca trail were better than some of the meals we've eaten in restaurants!

Our first Inca site! Yay!
Our first campsite is in a gorgeous clearing next to a stream, our tnets are ready when we arrive, along with roll matts and afternoon tea with hot chocolate!!! The dinners are just as awesome, although the toilets leave a lot to be desired, but at least we have them!

DAY 2: This makes day one seem like a lazy stroll! We're awoken at 6:15am, pack our shit, eat breaky (fruit salad, popcorn-like cereal, porridge and pancakes!) and head up the mountain. When I say up...I mean UP!!! 7hrs of steep, rocky incline in the form of hills or steps (I hate steps with a passion now!!!). The group becomes scattered, the competitors first, followed by the fit, the us!! Delayed by lack of oxygen, beautiful scenery or an obsession with photography (not naming any names Jemimah!!) we make it to the campsite between 12 AND 3.

Now, those not familiar with the effects of altitude, let me paint a nice little picture for you! You start off fighting fit, charging up the stairs. After 10 seconds, you start sucking air, you fill your entire lungs with air but find only a tiny shrivel of oxygen in each breath. You breathe harder and faster, your body realises its not getting any O2 and starts to slow down. Almost to ahalt. This is when your brain realises you still have 9km to go with f"%k all oxygen and steps the height of your thigh. Walking sticks provide some leverage, but all in all you're in struggle street! However, the stream trickling next to the path, the misty clouds covering the gigantic mountains, the view of the camp you're coming from looking like tiny ant villages in the distance and good company long the way makes you realise, this isn't difficult. Sure, its a challenge, but you're having the most amazing time and seeing the most increadible sights!!!
With this in mind, you manage to drag yourself to the summit (otherwise known as Dead Woman's Pass, how comforting!) at 4200m above sea level. At first your're relieved. Until it starts pissing down,drenching every item of clothing, despite the fact that its all waterproof! Your knees start creaking as you descend down an enormous amount of stairs, and a small waterfall follows you down due to the amount of rainfall. However, again, you don't mind. A curious llama greets you along the way with giant eyelashes, you pass a waterfall that relaxes you, and you realise the ones who should be struggling are the porters that pass you, running, looking like tortoises with their load. You realise that the two jolly Canadians behind you are struggling just as much as you are or in Jem's case, the journey is helped by a random guide who's lost his group and decides to be your personal buddy along the way.

By the time you reach camp, the best thing in the world is adry tent, a warm change ofclothes, a hot chocolate and a piece of bread with butter and jam!!! The porters applaud your arrival to the campsite every afternoon, weshould be applauding them!!!
DAY 3: This is the day known as unforgettable. The first inca ruin is awatch tower, circular and on the top of a hill looking at the trail, monitoring its pilgrams, reserved exclusively for the religious members of society. The incas had a very interesting social ladder, we learn fromRuben. As usual, there were royalty, followed by nobles of blood, nobles of privelege, the army, working population and then servants. However, unlike ancient Egyptian and African societies, the Incan government treated their servents very well. Once a servant had completed ajob, they were allowed to join the working population, or in rare cases, sometimes even nobility!
Aseries of short inclines and declines leads us to another site, this time a religious site where we learn that the icna religion originates from several pre-inca societies. This mono theistic society was based around the 'Spiritual'or 'Flying' god. This then developed into poytheism, where deities from the pre-incas were re-incorporated (puma, condor, snake, mountains etc) and promoted to gods in the process.

After lunch, we keep trekking for anotherfewhours through beautiful rainforest (at 3000m??) and massive100m drops off the side! This is 90% original inca stones and mortar which makes the walk all the more surreal!
The the motherf"%king steps! 3000m steep, mossy steps, some which, despite the general natureof a step, are round! Knees, calves and any other leg-part are dying, people are stacking it all over the place which provides a bit of a laugh!!!
We're told to look out for a tunnel, but once we get there, its dutch-ovened by one of the guys in front of us, meaning we have to stall our journey until the smell disperses and causes us to believe that Matt is in need of some immediate medical procedure to cure whatever the hell is wrong with him!!
The walk home is amazing and excrutating at the same time, until we FINALLY reach camp for acoke and snickers to undo all the good work we've just done!!
DAY 4: We're awoken abruptly at4am and due to the fact that our torch has run out of battery, are forced to pack in the dark! After a hot breakky we head out blindly to the Sungate, about 2hrs trek from camp. When we arrive, however, instead of being able to see Maccu Picchu, all we see is white!The mist is supposed to clear at 8am, 2hrs from now! So we wander around in the mist until we start our tour. Like clockwork, the mist clears at 8 to reveal the most amazing place I have ever been in my entire life!! There'sno way to describe this ancientcity so I will use photos instead (see above post)

Monday, March 10, 2008

Travelling Follies

So whilst one is travelling, one learns many things along the way. I have made a short list of the things thus far NOT to do whilst venturing through South America on a tour:

DO NOT loose your exit card, for any country

DO NOT use indian ink fruit like its finger paint, on your cheeks, on your arms, anywhere really! IT DOESN'T COME OFF!!!

DO NOT eat curry from a Japanese restaurant in Brazil. Despite what you may think, they have NO IDEA HOW TO MAKE IT!

DO NOT loose in a game of arsehole. This will result in you having to wear a pair of pink antennae around the city you are in until someone else looses the infamous card game.

DO NOT fail to get everyone to get to play arsehole once you have lost, meaning you cannot pass your title onto the next unlucky victim

DO wear sunscreen on nose whilst horse riding. Otherwise you will be affectionately known as Rudolf until it fades.

DO NOT attempt to do the Brazilian version of the macarena in night clubs, despite what you may believe, you DO NOT look as good as the locals do!

DO dance on the bar at the local clubs, it will result in free drinks if your dancing impresses the bar staff...not sure if robot dancing really counts...

DO NOT attempt to do a jetstar jump on salt flats, it is not like snow and will not be merciful when you jump too high and stack it...

DO NOT attempt to play soccer at 4000m. It will result in your lungs feeling like they're on fire and despite the faith you may have in your playing abilities, ou WILL NOT beat the locals!

DO NOT forget that although the country you are in is close to the Equator, at 3000m plus, ITS STILL FRIGGIN FREEZING!!!

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